ALP: Interior Install // 11.18.2015My goal with everything I do on a car is to have high functionality with OEM look. That means concealing things as much as possible without sacrificing functionality. That means not adding a bunch of extra wires or components and to have the install be as unassuming (visually) as possible. For the interior, I needed to figure out the following: find a spot for the CPU controller, a way to power it, then the speaker (usually the easiest), next a place for the HiFi Controller, and finally the LED.
CPU and PowerHaving done a similar install on the RS4, I knew there would be space underneath the knee bolster, and that I would power the unit off of a switched 12v fuse (one that only receives power when the ignition is on). Unlike the RS4, this knee bolster (technically referred to as the 'Driver Instrument Panel Cover" by Audi, was a monumental pain to get off. I couldn't believe how hard I needed to pry/pull down on it (after removing the 3 screws) to get it to pop off. The manual is no joke stating, "The instrument panel cover can only be unclupped from the instrument panel by exerting a relatively high amount of force". I used the interior toolset trim remover set I have to get started, and then pulled, literally with the entire weight of my body to get it off. It took several tries and obscenities to make it happen. Click pics below for details.
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The finalized HiFi Controller installation
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With the knee bolster removed, I could see where there was space to mount the CPU box. Before I got to that, though, I wanted to make sure to have all wires robustly secured. Click on the gallery pics below to see my McGuyver work ;) with some zip ties that especially made sure the USB cable wouldn't accidentally disconnect.
For power, I again connected to a switched 12v fuse, just as I did with the Max 360...same fuse actually. This is also how I did it for my prior Valentine 1 and Laser Interceptor install. Instead of doing the Add-A-Fuse, though, I just wrapped the cord around the fuse, so that I could retain the purple clips on top and have it look as OEM as possible. You also see the USB cable peeking out there: easy to update ALP when needed by just popping off the fuse cover. When I do the rear sensors (i.e. when I have to take the knee bolster off again), I'll think about routing that somewhere even more convenient. Good for now.
For the speaker, the bottom left side of the footwell ended up being ideal. I could squeeze the speaker back into the corner and it's snug enough to not need any other method of securing. It faces right, into the cabin, and I knew from my Laser Interceptor experience that volume levels would not be an issue. I routed the cord up behind the steering column to plug into the HiFi control set. Both sets of cords ready to be tucked back to the right (first and second pics) below.
Ready for the knee bolster to be put back on, and with the magic of Velcro, the HiFi Controller is secured (click for larger versions)...
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Looking to the left side of the steering column, I could see a spot for mounting the CPU box (left). Ideally there would've been something to place the CPU on top of, but I only found the bottom of the plastic rails to which I could attach the CPU. A long time and dearly trusted friend, 3M double-sided tape, came to the rescue as usual, and I was able to mount the box as you see below. It is very securely fastened...it's not going anywhere. And yes, I tested to make sure that I could connect 2 ALP heads at the same time on either side of the zip tie.
HiFi Controller and Speaker
I knew the speaker would go in the footwell somewhere, but wasn't sold on where the actual controller should go. It's important to be able to reach it easily, especially during alerts, so based off of another install I saw, I positioned it to the right of the steering column as you can see at the top right of this page.
For the controller, I routed the cable from the CPU safely behind the knee airbag, and made sure to secure (via zip ties) the cable along the way to ensure it won't interfere with either the air bag or the steering column (which can be electronically adjusted). 
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Final touch: the LED
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Finally, the external LED which provides an easier view of the ALP operating. Again, I surveyed the dashboard for the best place for a while, and after seeing another helpful post on RDForum, went ahead with this very low key location shown to the right.
It took some nervous tugging on the trime piece to the left and bottom of the LED in the picture, to get it to release (again, used the trim removal tools). 
Next, I needed to figure out how I could get the LED up into that corner (above shows post pic). With some trial and error, I was able to thread it up from below with the knee bolster still off, and simply wedge it into its location. It's very secure without any extra fasteners, and I was able to gently bend it into the perfect angle for viewing. Once it's all said and done, it's very unobtrusive to me or anyone else in the car, but within eyesight when needed.
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Well hidden for majority of time, perfectly visible when needed.
